China

Note: our China trip was in 2004 and obviously experiences reflect that time and the following notes are from that time. Nonetheless, the experiences were real and also many of the main scenes and monuments remain as they then were.

China Trip

This was a trip under our own steam and on a low budget-public transport, homestays and other modest living. This was a 6 month trip which began in Hong Kong and progressed all the way to Beijing. This was via Yangshuo, Yangtze River, Putoshan Island, Hangzhou, Shanghai, Zhouzhuang, Yangzhou, Zian, Pingao, Datong and lots more.

Hong Kong

This was our kick off point and initially, a shock to the system. But after a week we really appreciated the multicultural city which combines HK Island, Kowloon and New Territories all quite different. Central HK island is a very busy business centre. This was really visible from the summit, reached by bus. It contrasts with the sedate Botanical Gardens and other parks, as well as area around Happy Valley Race Course. Huge variety of cafes, etc. It was very interesting to view and experience life on the water. We stayed few days on HK Island and then moved to Kowloon (by MTR). Quite a difference, much more “authentic”, but very busy and full of character.

Yangshuo and Vicinity

A laid back town, amidst surrounding limestone (karst) peaks and farmland. We have put in a lot of photos – this is to show life in this favourite area and general, to show this aspect of rural life. Here we experienced rural Chinese life at its best. We stayed with a local farmer family who were so friendly. It was not devoid of rain! We used go on cross country cycles, frequently along the mucky field headlands. We would end up covered in muck, but Farmer Tan always came home spotless. We met up with others on a similar adventure. Cycles including trip to Moon Hill, with its moon shaped hole and various caves.

On the Mighty Yangtze River and Putoshan

We did an extended trip on this mighty river starting at Chonquing City and ending at Yichang and then on an overnight boat to Putoshan Island in the East China Sea. The scenery was truly amazing, particularly passing through the 3 gorges area where the water level is still low in advance of completion of the Yangtze Dam. Visible, apart from the dramatic high cliffs, were in places, on the banks farming, houses, monuments and unfortunately, the occasional dreadful “new city” to which people were being relocated. We took part in dragon boat race and attended various entertainments.

Overnight boat (an interesting event in itself) brought us to Putoshan. This island has many temples, the most challenging at the top of hill after 2000 steps-but view is good.

Hangzhou

Hangzhou in the eastern Zhejiang Province is a seriously attractive city – combination of tradition and modern in its architecture and activities. The beautiful West Lake is central to many structures and activities – Tai-Chi or just walking or talking. There are numerous sights – Six Harmonies Pagoda, Museums, Markets and Gardens.

Shanghai

Long the pulse of China, this city is a dramatic mixture of old and new, The Bund or (no longer) muddy waterfront was where it all happened. It is the symbol of Shanghai and the destination for much world trade where fortunes could be made and lost. Old Shanghai is like a vast museum of narrow streets, traditional buildings and traditional activities-playing GO, etc. The central district has many new and international shops and restaurants. Across the river in Pudong is the scene of massive hotel and commercial development. There are numerous museums and galleries where traditional Chinese art (beautiful!) can be seen. We also witnessed one of the most spell binding acrobatic shows.

Zhouzhuang and Yangzhou

This absolutely delightful place NE of Shanghai is really like the Venice of China. Unlike Venice the “gondolas” are powered by strong ladies at incredible speeds with incredible loads. Really nice place to linger.

Yangzhou – this cultural city has been home to scholars, artists, poets and merchants – and it shows! Pleasant city with wide streets and many gardens, canals and bridges, temples and monuments.

Xian and Terracotta Warriors

Xian is one of Chinas main cultural centres. Of course the single biggest attractions are the nearby Terracotta warriors site. It is bounded by a 14km huge wall, with gateways and bell towers and has bell tower in centre. Many of the numerous museums and artistic activities are within this area. I participated in one of the many calligraphy classes, which I had done in a few other places aswell. The equipment and process are very interesting. There were lots of outdoor “dining” opportunities !!!!

Nearby is the top historical Terracotta Warriors Site. 2000 years old but just discovered in 1974 by man shown in photo – a local farmer. These were guardians of the tomb of the emperor Qin Shihuang (210BC). I have included a good few photos, so the range and variety of men, horses, chariots, weapons and equipment can be seen. These were originally painted in colours, some hints remain. Each features are different.

Pingao

Really fell in love with this place – like me-auld and decrepit (but tasteful!). It has an intact 6km Zhou Dynasty wall (800bc!), which you can walk around and spy on the citizens below. It is pretty well preserved as built (now a UNESCO WHS). Great place to just hang, observing the folks with their less than arduous activity, imbibing and drawing.

Datong

Xuandong Hanging Monastery and Cloud Ridge Caves.

The Hanging Monastery is in Hunyan, 65 km s/e of Datong. This 1400 year old monastery is built precariously on the cliff face. Buildings connected by bridges and boardwalks. It has lots of statues – Buddha, Laotzu, Confucious, side by side.

These remarkable caves from 5^th century contain over 50,000 buddhist statues!!!!, including one seated Buddha 17m high. It also has several pagodas.

Beijing and Great Wall

Our trip culminated in a long stay in Beijing, including several trundles along the Great Wall.

Of course we visited all the great spots – Tiananmen Sq with its flags, Forbidden city (privileged to visit its previously highly restricted temples and palaces) Mao Ze Dong Mausaleum, etc.

A favourite was the Summer Palace with its lakes, gardens, highly-decorated outdoor corridors. Beautiful round Temple of Heavenly Peace. China Art Gallery, Chinese History Museum, Silk Market, vibrant art galleries, etc., etc.

Very interesting but somewhat sad was visiting the Hutongs – narrow alleys and courtyards. These were the traditional houses. Interesting to understand their social structure. Now sadly disappearing to make way for high-rise and commercial. Also interesting (for a Paddy) was one street consisting only of pubs – an attraction or what?! Also opportunity was taken for some calligraphy and to buy some gear.

The Great Wall

Not much to say other than during stay in Beijing did 4 walks. The longest was approx. 25km which was a bit of a struggle. As photos show, it is in various states of repair. Also many sections are very steep – notably at Simatai-there can be quite long stretches of hundreds of uphill stems (or no steps!). It was just a remarkable experience -really stepping back into history and imagining.